Blague from Prague
If you like collections of ancient castles and churches surrounded by scores and scores of schlocky souvenir stores Prague is the city for you. Really, how many blown glass cats and pornographic t-shirts can the Earth support?
Prague is a city of tourists – Disneyland without rides. As such, it is a slice of the world, or at least that small part of it that has they money to travel around.
Each country, I can observe, contributes its own special style to tourist culture.
Americans are easy to spot. For some reason they like to travel around in large groups all wearing identical t-shirts. Why would a group of twenty-somethings decide to go out together all wearing bright orange? How about that group of thirty-somethings all wearing black t-shirts proclaiming "Michael's 40th Birthday". Yeah, that's how I want to spend my 50th when it comes around. Maybe I'll line up a couple dozen close friends and family to hike the Inca Trail into Machu Pichu with us all wearing bright green shirts emblazoned with "Vamos Gringo Viejo!"
Europeans are easy to spot too. None of their shirts match but they studiously follow dour-faced tour guides who hold closed umbrellas high aloft so their charges don't get lost. Really, I thought that was just in movies. So obedient.
A city of tourists is also a city of languages and people who speak all kinds of odd combinations of languages. Austrians who also speak Spanish. Bulgarians who speak English. Chinese who speak Czech. Here's one place where my American brethren get left behind. As the old joke goes: When people speak three languages they are called trilingual. When people speak two languages they are called bilingual. When they speak one language we call them American.
Finally, there are the long cobblestone streets that tourists find so quaint. We have those in Bolivia too. In Bolivia we call them simply, "the street".
On to Zagreb.
Prague is a city of tourists – Disneyland without rides. As such, it is a slice of the world, or at least that small part of it that has they money to travel around.
Each country, I can observe, contributes its own special style to tourist culture.
Americans are easy to spot. For some reason they like to travel around in large groups all wearing identical t-shirts. Why would a group of twenty-somethings decide to go out together all wearing bright orange? How about that group of thirty-somethings all wearing black t-shirts proclaiming "Michael's 40th Birthday". Yeah, that's how I want to spend my 50th when it comes around. Maybe I'll line up a couple dozen close friends and family to hike the Inca Trail into Machu Pichu with us all wearing bright green shirts emblazoned with "Vamos Gringo Viejo!"
Europeans are easy to spot too. None of their shirts match but they studiously follow dour-faced tour guides who hold closed umbrellas high aloft so their charges don't get lost. Really, I thought that was just in movies. So obedient.
A city of tourists is also a city of languages and people who speak all kinds of odd combinations of languages. Austrians who also speak Spanish. Bulgarians who speak English. Chinese who speak Czech. Here's one place where my American brethren get left behind. As the old joke goes: When people speak three languages they are called trilingual. When people speak two languages they are called bilingual. When they speak one language we call them American.
Finally, there are the long cobblestone streets that tourists find so quaint. We have those in Bolivia too. In Bolivia we call them simply, "the street".
On to Zagreb.

The Democracy Center, based in Cochabamba Bolivia and San Francisco California, works globally to advance human rights through a combination of investigation and reporting, training citizens in the art of public advocacy, and organizing international citizen campaigns. If you like the Blog, consider becoming a subscriber to The Democracy Center's free e-newsletter by sending us an email at 
34 Comments:
Just as I linked to the Economist article early on in a comment thread (before Jim posted on it), I would now like to point folks in the direction of an interesting article in the new edition of The Nation: http://www.thenation.com/doc.mhtml?i=20050704&s=parenti
Throughout South America, center-left governments are taking power, with Uruguay and Ecuador being the latest to join the trend. Bolivia, home to some of the most well-organized and radical popular movements on the continent, could be next. But the challenges facing the Bolivian left are enormous: Despite all its strength, it is riven by ideological disputes, pervasive Quechua versus Aymara ethnic factionalism and the constant clash of leadership egos.
Enjoy. Let the hair-pulling begin...
So you are travelling through Europe, right? Nice. Enjoy the castles and the museums, as you could NOT do that if Bolivia was under Morales (Bolivia would be a pariah nation).
Wait! I forgot you have an American passport and would go away in the event of this happening.
Hypocrite!
Readers,
Every week or so I give a glance to the comments to see what people are saying.
I think it is fine that a couple of people seem to have made a hobby of posting daily barbs at my writings. That's why we allow unrestricted comments. Though long entries by the dozen may mean that it is time to start your own Blog instead of piggybacking on this one.
However, when people hiding their identity attack me for traveling without having any knowledge of why I am away, that seems just stupid.
I do have a job and sometimes my job requires that I travel. If I could be home in Bolivia with my family I would be.
Borrowing from an earlier thread:
"The "free market" ideology is a sham. Like Christianity before it, it is preached to the poor but not practiced by the rich. If there were no monopolies and barriers to entry, the market would efficiently allocate resources just as if everyone practiced humility and other Christan virtues the world would be a peacefull place. Neither of these premises is valid. The rich have never practiced Christianty and they have never accepted free markets if they stood to lose from it. All this is obvious to anyone who hasn't been indoctrinated not to see it, e.g. by formal university training in theology or economics."
So your solution is to eliminate economic freedom because some people abuse it?
The solution in my mind is to police those people who abuse this freedom, and punish them accordingly.
As for practicing Christianity, how in the world did you come up with the conclusion that the rich are worse christians than the poor?
Once again - I'm sick of the "nobility of the poor" concept. The poor should be helped and it is our ethical responsibility to do our best to make the world a just and prosperous place for all. That doesn't make the poor noble. They aren't. They're just folks. The lack of cash in your pocket does not a saint or Christian make.
And what is with the anti-educational tone with some of you? Did you all flunk out of school or something? Geez - I can't understand it.
Some of us have been around and studied, and been on the ground, and talked with people rich and poor and found our "university indoctrination" to be a valuable part of our toolkit for understanding the world.
What do you propose? That we all avoid university education and pull down the free market?
To impliment what? A market centrally managed by a group of non-Christian, non-university educated enlightened people who will create a noble system for us all from the top down?
I think we've been down that road before...
Great article Dan.
Very scary... it just highlights how ugly things are right now.
I think it captures well both the excesses and dangers of the coca erradication, but also the rather scary aspects of some of the unions, etc.
Just an all around good read.
I have been too busy of late to spend as much time posting comments here. But I also do post from time to time at my own blog: http://www.danmoriarty.blogspot.com/ The latest: some brief comments on the Nation piece.
It's not all about Bolivia, but Bolivia is definitely one of my main interests.
Ok, tell us, then. What do you do? Besides giving leftist propaganda, of course.
Democracy Center my ***. Pro-Left Center, it should be.
Looks like you and I both have a Bolivian wife in common (though not the same one, I hope!)
You're back in the US now?
As to your blog post, I'd say my thoughts are almost exactly the opposite of yours.
I went to Bolivia believing that the US or the IMF or whatever was mostly responsible for the poverty and injustice in Bolivia.
And while I still agree that the US is frequently an issue (though it is on the right side sometimes) I can't help but feel that we over-estimate our own importance way too much.
I think Bolivian problems are much more Bolivian than they are external - they are rooted in the ugly historical reality of colonialism and fostered on racism, corruption, and a general cultural malaise on some issues.
I was continually exasperated by the degree to which I saw ways to build better lives that were tossed away through inaction or corruption or mediocrity.
I believe even if the United States and the IMF and everyone else does not change ONE iota, Bolivia has plenty of room to grow and become a more prosperous, just, and fair society.
I think part of Bolivia's deepest problem is that most people view the problem as external to themselves (it's the gringos, it's the indians, it's the whites, it's the crucenos, it's those damn kollas).
Maybe it's too hard for individuals to act differently, but the system in Bolivia is broken on the inside, more than it is constrained from the outside.
Yes, external factors matter. But there were SO MANY, SO MANY times when I saw day to day life ruined in Bolivia by people who (in things big and small) were mediocre, corrupt, dishonest, lacking in solidarity, etc.
I can't count the millions of ways that the places I lived could have been improved through the efforts of the people right in the community.
As Americans, we ascribe ourselves FAR too much importance - both as evildoers and saviors.
> The solution in my mind is to police those people who abuse this freedom, and punish them accordingly.
Unfortunatly the power of the state usulally also resides with the abusers. Thats is why simply following the formal rules of democracy often isn't enough to to even maintain, let alone improve the situation. I have nothing but sympathy for these poor people taking to the streets and shutting the country down to emphasize their demands. And I'm not surpriced that the Western Middle Class' reaction is basically: "Let them eat cake". Nothing new there.
That's just bullshit.
The formal rules of democracy work just fine as long as people vote and vote and the system is not fixed.
I've not heard anyone allege that the vote in Bolivia is fixed or that there is systematic marginalization of voters.
What the hell else do you want? What system do you propose?
Rule by the enlightened?
Or let's say we impliment rule by mob force. See who can rally more to their flag, the MAS people or the cruceno seperatists? There's an idea that I think both Evo and Vaca Diez can get behind.
Either you're saying:
a.) The elections in Bolivia aren't free and fair (something no one is alleging)
b.) Democracy is fundamentally a corrupt system, in which case I'd love to hear your alternative.
or
c.) You just plain dislike the result, therefore it's unfair.
I don't know, I don't buy into any of those.
I hate the fact that George Bush won the elections in the US. I think he's in bed with the powerful and the greedy and represents a lot of what's wrong with the US.
But guess what? He won. That's what the people wanted. Stupid, in my estimation, but what can I say? It's not my right to assume my view is more important than theirs.
Tons of people here continually whine that the democracy in Bolivia, "doesn't work". By what criteria? That it doesn't produce results that you want? That democracy is too slow?
Gimme a freaking alternative! One that is fair to everyone, not only a Potosi miner, but a Guarani farmer, and a La Paz lawyer. Give me a better system.
People in Bolivia have continually voted most heavily for the traditional parties! How can you possibly say that the results of the elections in Bolivia do no represent the legitimate will of the people of Bolivia? On what basis? That you dislike the results?
Evo Morales and MAS have amassed substantial power precisely BECAUSE of the democratic system. You know why he's on internatioanl TV all the time now? Because he's got a legitimate mandate, validated by his vote totals.
Check the composition of the congress in Bolivia lately? Ever notice who runs El Alto?
When and if Evo and the MAS members of parliment are forcibly removed from power, or not allowed to vote, then I'll agree with you.
Otherwise, you're just spouting the same old party line.
And you have NO right, nor cause, to suggest that anyone's position here is equivelant to "let them eat cake".
What the hell do you know about what any of us want? Who gave you the right to judge the morality and intentions of anyone here? Many of us have stated over and over again that we want a just and prosperous Boliva for all.
I'm sick of the implicit arrogance of the left that says, "if you don't agree with what I say, you're immoral and unjust."
I'll rake you over the coals on your politics (as I just did above) and you're welcome to rake right back. you can call me stupid, arrogant, and just plain wrong.
But I've never suggested (as misguided as I think a lot of posts here are) that the "lefties" here want anything but the best for the world.
I think you're full of crap in your analysis, but I don't doubt that you think what you think out of a desire for good.
Do me a favor, get off your high-horse of "holier than thou" morality, and extend the rest of us the same consideration.
Believe it or not, just because someone doesn't agree with your political standpoint, doesn't make them Marie Antoinette.
Maybe it's too hard for individuals to act differently, but the system in Bolivia is broken on the inside, more than it is constrained from the outside.
There's a great pamphlet put out years and years ago called "You Can't Blow Up A Social Relationship" and that came about mostly in response to the failure of the Soviet Union to be nothing more than a rejiggered elite. The basic point (and I'm sure you could find it copied somewhere online these days in whole) is that too many people confuse the state and economies for being the disease as opposed to the symptoms. At the end of the day, the state and economies enforce whatever the hell social dynamics are apparent. You can tear down, blow up, assasinate everyone you want, but at the end of the day those same messed up social roles will be filled by someone else, unless those very roles themselves are tackled, changed, and made different.
Yes, external factors matter. But there were SO MANY, SO MANY times when I saw day to day life ruined in Bolivia by people who (in things big and small) were mediocre, corrupt, dishonest, lacking in solidarity, etc.
I think the thing is, as an American, I can't solve the Bolivians problem internally. But I can make sure that my own government doesn't exacerbate situations. I disagree with the kind of "Kissinger Did It" analysis many people come up with to explain things going awry in the south. But there is no doubt that the US exacerbated and provoked problems.
While I don't particuarly care for Chomsky, he made a very good statement one time when someone accused him in an interview of harping on the US and letting off other countries. And he shot back that he wasn't a citizen of those countries, he was a citizen of THIS country, and therefore when he felt his country was doing wrong he would speak up, or when it was meddling in others affairs. He wasn't a citizen of these other countries, so he had no say in how they ran themselves.
I can't count the millions of ways that the places I lived could have been improved through the efforts of the people right in the community.
I agree. I don't believe in top down change, since this is never really much of a real change anyways. Only things from the bottom up can change things. And when I say bottom up I don't mean just rising up and installing a new President. I mean retooling things on a district by district, etc level till you get to the top that is reformed or abolished all together in favor of a flatter way of running things.
As Americans, we ascribe ourselves FAR too much importance - both as evildoers and saviors.
I agree with this. Nothing irritated me more than the banter of many liberals after the election talking about how great is Europe etc etc. You've got to be kidding me. Those places have as many problems. The fact that they are vaguely more socialistic is beside the point. And they are responsible for alot of the colonial remnants and oppression that dominated the world for hundreds of years.
The formal rules of democracy work just fine as long as people vote and vote and the system is not fixed.
But the problem is most of the time the system is fixed. From the high amount of "lesser evil-ism" that pervades many democracies, spoiler votes, the large amounts of money needed to run campaigns, the possibility for totalitarian control , "loyal" opposition, many democracies may as well raise their hands and say the jig is up. When hundreds of thousands of people cast votes for represenatives that they personally disdain simply out of a dislike for another canidate, then something is fundamentally wrong. Mechanisms must be put into place.
But guess what? He won. That's what the people wanted. Stupid, in my estimation, but what can I say? It's not my right to assume my view is more important than theirs.
(Note: I am NOT trying to make the frequent comparison of Bush being Hitler, or that America is some sort of facist state, or anything absurd like that) Democracies can, and have, dissolved into totalitarian states. Throwing your hands up and saying that "they won so they're absolutely legitimate" flies in the face of any concept of rights. A majority cannot invalidate the rights of a few. At the same time the minorities can't run roughshod or ignore the decisions of the majority. This is a fundamental tension in many represenative democracies, the balancing act between the majority, the minority, and whether just because you lost an election by 500,000, should your voice be absolutely discounted? Should the whole position of the country be decided what basically amounts to a small margin of victory?
Many democracies have tried to solve these problems through various schemes of proportional representation, power splitting or coalition governments, or certain "hard" quotas to make sure that certain segments that are either population wise very small or otherwise locked out of the process have a voice and a vote. The Scottish Parliment has instituted I think a very good proportional election system that I think should be the model for other developed countries.
While the comment by the other individual was I think simplistic, I think you put too much faith in the inherent "rightness" of any system that calls itself democratic, without analyzing the mechanisms for how voting is done, how elections are financed, and various other ingrained or external factors (control of media, military, corruption etc).
Thanks for the long, in-depth, and well thought out post.
Yeah, you're probably right in that there are many problems in democracies that are hard to root out - mostly because of lack of options.
But then again, now that I think of it, Bolivia has less claim to that than most countries. When I've voted in Bolivia, I'm always amazed at the range of options on the ballot.
I always argued with people - if you want a trotskyite, vote for one. IF you want a socialist, vote for one. Cripes, if you want a fascist, there's probably one of those in there somewhere too.
But I get your overall point.
I'm not trying to deify the Bolivian (or American) democracy, but I think in both cases they are systems that, by and large, work and are preferrable to just about any option I can think of right now.
And I guess that's my fundamental issue - for everyone harping on how bad the Bolivian democracy is, what is the proposed alternative?
Too many people fought, died, and were exiled for the right to vote and have a representative government to just toss it away.
Put yourself in the shoes of my mother-in-law who is from Tarija and votes MNR. From her perspective, Evo is trying to run roughshod over her rights and her vote. And she's no elite, by a long shot.
BTW, I agree, I'm not trying to say that majority rules invalidate minority rights. In fact, I learned that lesson well in Bolivia when I was a minority during a situation... long story.
I actually believe that a just system and a strong democracy is most clearly defined by it's protection for the minority rather than it's ability to empower the majority.
That's a constitutional/judicial/cultural issue, I believe, more than anything else.
I GOTTA get back to work...
Andrew, I would recommend the Real Utopias series published by Verso for interesting reading. They're hefty tomes focusing on alot of modifications, reforms, and various other mechanisms to improve things, from a decidedly leftist point of view. They are not, however, mere retreads of what a bunch of dead guys wrote a hundred years ago. Many of them are actually moderately realistic policy choices for rejiggering things.
Thanks for the tip... I just ordered one from the library....
A couple of things to Andrew:
1. You wrote that "The formal rules of democracy work just fine as long as people vote and vote and the system is not fixed."
I don't think this is true on its own. An important part of democracy is deliberative democracy, with people being active participants in decision making, instead of merely voting in representatives to do so. WIthout the more active component of democracy I don't think simply voting works. The founding fathers of the USA wrote extensively about this issue, and I believe the (relative) lack of deliberative democracy here in the US goes a long way in explaining our problems now; why Bush is in charge, why we're in Iraq, the sorry state of the media... I digress.
2. You and other posters are suspicious of non free market economic "management" of the economy. A question that keeps being brought up is credible alternatives. I believe one that should be explored was proposed by Oscar Oliver in his book 'Cochabamba!'. He wrote that to better administer Cochabamba's water provisioning, the water utility should become managed by something he called "social ownership". Under that scheme if would not be private property of either a private company or private property of a state entity (aka public property). It would belong to the citizens of Cochabamba, to be administered by and for their interests. Perhaps someone else can more fully explain the idea?
And my challenge to the free-marketeers here is to not simply dismiss this idea because it is not free market. This seems to me to be a possible alternative, for those who complain that lefties complain but never offer alternatives.
On point one, my first reaction is that the lack of "deliberativeness" in the Bolivian system, much like the US system, as nothing to do with "the elites" or the system itself, but more to do with how citizens themselves act within that system.
I'm a big believer in democracy, obviously, because it is the freedom of individuals to choose their leadership and (as you say) participate meaningfully in the direction of their government and thus lives.
However, the existence of that freedom doesn't mean that people will actually use it wisely, or take advantage of it.
But my viewpoint is that if people have access to the means to be full fledged, active participants in a democracy and choose not to do so (as is the case in the US as well) then you can't blame "the system" for the results.
As an example,
As for your second point, I'd be interested to read up on
I am suspicious though. I think that at the "top end" where people become ultra-rich, the government needs to curtail the unhealthy accumulation of power. On the "bototm end" we have a responsibility to intervene to help. But in the great middle ground between those two extremes, I think there is real power in the freedom of individuals to buy and sell to each other on the terms they choose.
Don't forget that any managed economic system requires both a necessary economic drag due to administration and the wisdom of individual managers. Granted, communist countries are an extreme example, but the burdens of managing and economy are enormous - and I think nearly unworkable (granted, you're not talking about something nearly that drastic).
One of the fascinating things about a functional free market is that prices are set automatically by the interplay of individuals.
I think of it like a natural ecosystem. Maybe we need to cull out super-predators or help out the weak, but in general, just like an ecosystem, it's the natural balance of all those animals and plants interacting with each other on their own terms, pursuing their own interests, that creates a healthy, diverse, functioning whole. Any managed wilderness inevitably falls far short of that.
I think people associate free markets with Bill Gates or Exxon (ie the super-predators). I associate free markets primarily with small business, farmers, entrepreneurs, resellers, taxi drivers. The rich interplay of individuals making choices. There's a real "people power" to that freedom that I think gets obscured by the big, flamboyant companies.
It's sort of like an outsiders perception of the US. It's all New York and Baywatch. But on teh ground, the majority of the US is Podunk Sprinks Nebraska. NY is the exception, not the rule. I think the same goes for Exxon.
However, in cases like Bolivia, where things are so screwed up, maybe there needs to be a more active role by the state.
I think we all need to be open to alternatives. But we have to also really work over those alternatives with a fine toothed comb (and the same goes for the status quo).
I don't know... I still think, based on my experience, that the major problem in Bolivia isn't the system per se, but some of the problems within Bolivian society itself.
The modus operandi of the United States and other colonialists is to support local thugs to beat down the population and guarantee the interests of the homelands corporations (Marcos, Shuarte, Duvalier, ...). The British, the French, the Spaniards, the Portugeese, the Dutch, even the Danish did the same when they had the opportunity. The "colony" is allowed to have a "top down" democracy if the thug wants to masquerade his rule but any disobedience is severely punished (Cuba, Nicaragua).
It is interesting that the most liberal democracies have been the worst offenders. It is an unfortunate consequence of the empowerment of democracy. The rule of law in the home country doesn't stop anyone from acting as a pirate abroad and the state is happy to assist. There is next to no rule of law internationally, only power relations, and the power is used brutally by those who have it.
Who controls state power: Does anyone think that Bush is in office to level the playing field against the interests of the corporations that payed to have him installed? The United States are comparatively democratic but the democracy even there is is severely limited. Study opinion polls and compare what people want to what they get. Many citizens are cynical about the democracy and they are right. Corporations pay for the election of most candidates which consequently go on to defend the interests of their sponsors against those of the general population. The health system and the “defense” system are prime examples of welfare for the rich.
The water utility should become managed by something he called "social ownership". Under that scheme if would not be private property of either a private company or private property of a state entity (aka public property). It would belong to the citizens of Cochabamba, to be administered by and for their interests.
So who would be responsible for the water supply? If water mains broke all over the city, who would repair them? Who would pay expenses? Who would collect receipts? Who would make sure people paid their water bills? Who would set the price paid for water? Who would hire and who would fire? If control of the water utility is taken from the elected leadership of Cochabamba, wouldn't it have to be handed to the unelected leadership of Cochabamba? Is that really better?
Bush wasn't "installed" by anyone but the American public.
I obviously completely disagree with 98% of what you said, but really, what's the point in replying?
Hi Jim, nice blog. I like your sense of humor. I actually can think of a circumstance where large groups of Americans might be wearing bright orange T-Shirts, especially if they say "Go Orange" on them. Orange is the team color of our college football team, and on game day you can see groups of ten or even hundreds of people of all ages wearing bright orange T-Shirts walking up to the Carrier Dome. That's the name of the stadium the team plays in. Construction of which was partly funded by the Carrier Corporation twenty years ago. That's how it got its name. So maybe the American tourists in Prague that you happened to see that day where all from Syracuse.
This group really needs to lighten up a little bit. I would like to see an end to the use of profanity on this blog and an end to personal attacks on Mr. Shultz and other commenters.
It's so unfortunate that Prague has ended up a tourist mecca! I was there 12 years ago in the Fall, and there were a few foreigners there, but not many--though many locals seemed to want to encourage tourism for the economy. I wonder what they would say today?
I still think the Charles Bridge, deserted in the early evening fog, is one of the most beautiful sights anywhere.
Wendy S
Okay, so i admit even i laughed at the american language joke near the end. hey, it was funny (and i'm american)...luckily (and hopefully) we're changing, though...studying my 3rd language now
just wondering...any countries you would recommmend to a high schooler to travel to (that aren't overly dangerous)? seeing that i'm american, jewish and female, i'd rule out most middle-eastern countries (although am open to suggestions)...
THANKS
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Are losing their and blaming it on you,
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If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Life is a goal, achive it.
But make allowance for their doubting too,
If you can keep your head when all about you
The night gallops on its shadowy mare
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