Well, I Guess You Can Count Out Compromise…
I just returned from the Plaza Principal, an ocean of people from one corner to the other, a good 5,000 at least, just guessing. Lots of huge bags of coca; lots of exploding fireworks; and all the same speeches we have heard from the same leaders for a few weeks. Manfred is alternatively the representative of the neoliberal model in Cochabamba and the king of corruption.
One other thing he is, is a Governor who is going to have a very, very hard time actually ever being governor again.
On the one hand it is almost impossible for me to imagine Manfred resigning. He is not just Manfred Reyes Villa, he is a political project years and years in the making, steadily seeking his way up the political ladder, presumably toward the Presidency he sought and almost won in 2002 (but for the skillful aid of former Clinton consultants hired by Goni). A lot of people have invested a lot of money and resources into the Manfred Project and such a project does not push the self-destruct button lightly.
On the other hand, it is becoming almost as impossible to imagine how he calmly returns to Cochabamba and goes back to paving roads, cutting ribbons and appearing in big publicly financed self-promotion ads about all that each Sunday in the local newspaper. Whatever you want to say about how this happened, Manfred Reyes Villa now has the most emphatic and largest mass of people who hate him of any Bolivian politician since Goni (and if you focus just on Santa Cruz, Evo).
What happens now is anybody's guess, but Manfred's stay in Santa Cruz is starting to look more and more like a very long-term visit.
I do have to say, that you have to love a city that, while a mass angry rally is happening in the Central Plaza, around the corner the cake shop is still open where you can buy a chocolate cream torta that is so sweet your teeth fall out on contact. Where the ladies with carts selling nuts and selling orange juice are doing brisk business with the protesters. Where people (except for those with stores and businesses on the Plaza) are going about their daily lives.
That's La Llajta!
One other thing he is, is a Governor who is going to have a very, very hard time actually ever being governor again.
On the one hand it is almost impossible for me to imagine Manfred resigning. He is not just Manfred Reyes Villa, he is a political project years and years in the making, steadily seeking his way up the political ladder, presumably toward the Presidency he sought and almost won in 2002 (but for the skillful aid of former Clinton consultants hired by Goni). A lot of people have invested a lot of money and resources into the Manfred Project and such a project does not push the self-destruct button lightly.
On the other hand, it is becoming almost as impossible to imagine how he calmly returns to Cochabamba and goes back to paving roads, cutting ribbons and appearing in big publicly financed self-promotion ads about all that each Sunday in the local newspaper. Whatever you want to say about how this happened, Manfred Reyes Villa now has the most emphatic and largest mass of people who hate him of any Bolivian politician since Goni (and if you focus just on Santa Cruz, Evo).
What happens now is anybody's guess, but Manfred's stay in Santa Cruz is starting to look more and more like a very long-term visit.
I do have to say, that you have to love a city that, while a mass angry rally is happening in the Central Plaza, around the corner the cake shop is still open where you can buy a chocolate cream torta that is so sweet your teeth fall out on contact. Where the ladies with carts selling nuts and selling orange juice are doing brisk business with the protesters. Where people (except for those with stores and businesses on the Plaza) are going about their daily lives.
That's La Llajta!
posted by The Democracy Center at 4:14 PM
The Democracy Center, based in Cochabamba Bolivia and San Francisco California, works globally to advance human rights through a combination of investigation and reporting, training citizens in the art of public advocacy, and organizing international citizen campaigns. If you like the Blog, consider becoming a subscriber to The Democracy Center's free e-newsletter by sending us an email at 
19 Comments:
Jim,
Jim, let's do a little math. If that main square is 100 meters by 100 meters, which is a fair estimate.Then you have 10,000 square meters. If you put 3 people in a square meter, then a conservative estimate is 30,000 people. If you want to take off half of that number, then you still have a crowd of 15,000 people.
Personally, I saw it on TV (which can be deceiving) and it looked like it was packed tighter than 3 people per square meter. It also looked like the whole plaza was full. Either way, there seems like there would be way more than 5000 people in that square.
Jeff
I think you make a good point regarding the Manfred project. If he were to quit now, he would undo significant amount of work put in to make him the anybody-but-Evo alternative. I personally hope he survives, not because I think he is a good politician, rather he cannot possibly be as bad as the current moron in chief.
I just managed to get out of Cbba. There is a mention of Manfred being the king of corruption but nothing is said about the attempt of intimidating any future opponents of Evo. There is a risk of this Chavez protege shutting down the opposition in an open fashion. Chavez is now trying to shut down RCTV, Venezuela's last right wing tv station. Let us not go backwards in time. Any chance of putting cyanide in that OJ that those cholitas are selling?
mmm...torta de chocolate, orange juice...
Jimmy boy, you forgot to mention where these tons of people create their own "tortas" and their own juices.
Read the Bolivian newspapers, you will see articles noting how the protesters have destroyed the city and also how they use the streets as public bathrooms.
Given that there are 800,000 Cochabamba city residents (who are totally pissed at Evo and his supporters from the Chapare) out of a total of 1,400,000 residents of the whole department, it's kind of hard to see how the numbers could go against Manfred.
Don't be too quick to write off the MAS influence. Evo's been winning at this game for the past 5 years, whether he was the minority or the majority. Jim writes that the armed siege has changed to a family sit-in. That means that any future outbreak of violence will lead to campesino martyrs, possibly women or children. That is quite intentional. It allows them to regain the moral high ground they clumsily lost and which is so critical to this kind of action. This is a major battle for control of Bolivia. If MRV falls, then every non-MAS politician knows that he / she can be silenced just as easily by a minority in his neighborhood.
BTW, where are the campesinos getting the funding to spend so much time in Cbba blockading or buying food and juice? I know they are not eating at the finest restaurants, but they must be eating. Are they bringing in food? One of the greatest challenges to an Army is the logistics support. One of the greatest risks is to have your supply lines cut. Why are these folks not challenged?
Jim,
I posted this earlier, but it did not show up. I'll try again.
I have read your blog and the comments to it off and on for a few years. One things that has stood out over that time is that many of your readers point out that on a regular basis that you have a decided slant one way or the other in your reporting. Have you ever considered if there is validity to those observations?
It would seem logical that an objective reporter (which is what you make yourself with this blog) would desire to be objective in his reporting of what he has seen. The more objective you can be in your writing, the more legitimate your writing and reporting becomes.
Perhaps, it would be a good idea to think about that the next time you slant a story in one direction or the other.
I am another one of those gringo volunteers in Cochabamba (I really did not know there were so many of us until I started reading this blog...). After only a few months in Bolivia it would be extremely arrogant for me to pretend as though I know sufficiently about the roots and realities of this conflict to take an educated position, and disseminate it on the web. So I will try to avoid the temptation as much as possible.
I have not always agreed with Jim´s perspective. Like others I would likely put a larger share of blame than he does on the implicit and explicit actions of those who have laid siege to Cochabamba over the past week (blockades, disruption of basic public services, the attempted invasion of the prefect´s building that escalated the conflict, the usurpation of the Manfred supporters´ legitimate right to demonstrate in the Plaza de Banderas Wednesday, by commencing an armed occupation before the other side had arrived), though plenty of blame belongs on the other side as well, especially with the way the violent conflicts started on Thursday. But that is not why I am writing.
I am writing because I think everyone here needs a good dose of humility. Bolivia has problems, many problems, but so do other countries. Elsewhere they are solved rather peacefully, through the democratic process. Here they are solved by immediate action, violent if necessary. That can be somewhat inspirational coming from a political apathetic country, but it also bodes ill for democracy. In no way is violence justified in this conflict, whether it is on the streets with sticks and stones, in actions that disrupt the daily lives of Cochabambinos, or by readers of this blog with vitriolic words.
It is the human tendency to view the world in stark contrasts of black and white, good and evil; that is the seed of many social problems and their manifestation in violence. It is that same tendency towards self-delusion and simplicity that provides a common bond to those that are otherwise enemies, such as Bush and Chavez. And what I most regret about what is happening in Cochabamba is the manifestation of that tendency as a form of group survival, further polarizing two sides, making conflict rather than dialogue more and more likely. Such thinking finds its roots in pomposity, misunderstanding, ignorance, and above all a sense of moral infallibility. It is only in that context that the unjustified actions of both sides can be understood, and why violence can be incited on issues that should be resolved peacefully and democratically, as they are in most countries to which we should aspire.
Sadly, I see that same tendency in the comments section of this blog. Many people, foreigners or nationals, in Cochabamba or elsewhere, presuming they know the whole truth to this sad situation, and writing as such with a sense of moral and intellectual superiority, sure as hell they are on the right side of history. It is such delusions of omniscience that preclude understanding and incite those actions we have seen on both sides here. I would wish that the readers of a blog on democracy and positive social change could rise above that, but my pleadings (to both sides) and the pleadings of others will not likely amount to much. It is interesting, but unfortunate, that the same conflict is being replayed to the same unnecessary levels of absurdity here as well as on the streets.
At least I hope some can find a more constructive use of time than ad hominem attacks on other bloggers and especially Jim. It is such attacks that are the first warning of an illogical argument to follow. While I may not always find myself on Jim´s side of an issue, I want to extend my general appreciation for this blog, which has deepened my understanding of Bolivian issues and is a great service to many readers here and abroad. I know others feel similarly.
Whatever he has done in the past, I believe he has reported rather admirably on this conflict in a fairly objective and cautious manner (perhaps too cautious) and explicated a reasonable solution. I hope others also can begin an attempt to provide information mindful of the limits of our understanding of such complex divisions. Otherwise we are no better than our enemies. In fact we are the same.
In a previous comment, Norman asked (rhetorically) where the money is coming from-- well, who stands to win from this? Evo. Word on the street Word is that the protests are being organized and paid for by MAS...
I can't vouch for the corruption or honesty of Manfred, but I can say that every central authority needs some kind of check and/or balance. Evo's attacks on the independence of the regional governors is not at all a good idea. What happens in five years when MAS is in the opposition again? Will they then become advocates for regional autonomy?
And making Cochabamba ungovernable by fomenting this kind of unrest is unspeakably stupid policy.
Stormin Normin wants to know why the demonstrating citizens are not starving. The old "follow the money" technique.
Well they are being fed by the efforts of the very same city folk that are supposed to not be supporting them. And that humanitarian help include the efforts of our fellow American, a young female professional working as an educator in Cochabamba. Below is a post from her blog. The specifics can be provided from a certain person who frequents this site.
Saturday, January 13, 2007
BACKSTAGE HEROINES
After the violent confrontation on Thursday which resulted in two deaths and over 100 injuries, I could hardly sleep in nervous anticipation of Friday’s events to come. All of my neighbors in Villa Pagador talked that evening about the huge “cabildo,” a mass rally in the center plaza, which was planned for Friday morning. People in every part of the state of Cochabamba were driving through the night for the rally. There were also rumors that three more planes of conservative, pro-Manfred Reyes Villa supporters had arrived in the city to support a countermarch. It seemed as though violent conflict was bound to take place. Everyone was telling me to stay away from the march, that it was dangerous since I am a foreigner, that the Bolivian government would kick me out of the country for participating. Going to bed on Thursday night, however, I was still unsure what I would do.
Friday morning I left my house at 6:30 AM to meet my co-worker Gabi to buy food (rice, pasta, and other dry products) to donate to the marchers, with money we had collected from everyone in my office. As I waited on the main street in Villa Pagador, next to my Bolivian “grandmother” selling tea on the corner, time passed and soon it was 8:00 AM, with still no sign of Gabi. I was just about to leave when Gabi jumped out of a bus and came running towards me: “Rebecca, sorry I am late, they came to my house at midnight and told me we had to cook for the marchers sleeping in the plaza. I have been cooking all night, we brought two barrels of food to the plaza, but it was not enough. All of the women were crying . . . we cannot just buy food anymore, there are no people cooking it, we have to cook it ourselves. We need to organize the women in Villa Pagador to help us!”
Gabi and I went to some small stores close by and explained to the women running the stores the situation. We told them that we needed large pots, any pasta, rice, potatoes or vegetables they could spare, and also the physical help of cooking. Before long we had collected four large pots, dozens of bags of food, a space in Villa Pagador to cook, and over ten women willing to help out. Two of the women were my host mother, Melanie, and my host grandmother who stopped selling her tea on the street to come cook with us.
Gabi and I also bought 200 small bags of yogurt, which could be immediately passed out to all of the young children that had slept in the plaza overnight. I was chosen to go to the CEDIB (the name of the NGO I work for) center office to drop off the yogurt, and then come back as quickly as possible to help cook. I jumped in a cab, and in 20 minutes I was in the city center and the yogurt was in route with another woman in my office to a plaza in a different part of the city. In the office I met up with my co-worker, Américo, who offered to walk me to the taxi-trufi (a taxi which has a pre-determined route, like a bus) to go back to Villa Pagador. Walking around the city, and through the center plaza, there were not any marchers in site, and it was hard to believe that in just one hour there would be thousands of people in the area.
Before getting on the taxi-trufi, Américo asked me, “Are you sure you want to leave the center now? The rally is in less than two hours, everyone from Villa Pagador is coming downtown, while you are going back there. Don’t you want to be at the rally also?” Yes, every inch of myself wanted to stay, but so many people had warned me not to go . . . No, I told Américo, I had to go back to Villa Pagador to cook.
I got in a taxi-trufi with six other people, and the driver raced off. Going quickly down a main road, we saw a huge crowd of people marching towards us, with a large banner, “Villa Pagador Present.” The march from Villa Pagador to the main plaza downtown had already started, and they had taken over the entire street. The driver took a quick left turn onto a bumpy side road, through a market, and past the marching crowd. Then we took another quick right, and went back to the main road. As soon as we got back on that street, however, we saw people piling up tires across it to prevent cars from passing. The driver tried to quickly slip through a space between two tires, but a man beat us to the space and laid down another large tire in front of us, blocking the way. “Go to the march!” he screamed at us. Returning to back roads again, my driver took us through a set of streets I had never seen before, until we finally reached Villa Pagador 15 minutes later.
I went to the space where all of the women were cooking to find the process well more advanced than when I had left. There where three different gas stoves set up, where large metal pots with water were sitting. There were also two women with smaller pans, frying raw pasta, while five women were peeling potatoes and four other women cutting up onions. The atmosphere was a little frantic, with women running here and there, but everyone had smiles on their faces, joking with each other. I sat down to start peeling potatoes, listening to the conversations around me.
“I heard the Manfred supporters just started beating a campesino (person from the countryside), and that is how the violence started.” “They keep on simply calling us MASistas (strong supporters of Evo Morale’s political party, MAS), but we are not just MAS, we are all of the people of Cochabamba.” “You should have heard this women giving a speech in Quechua today, she said that if Manfred thinks we are only a few, then come see us now!” “Yeah, let them see us now, Manfred is going to be sorry he ever thought about this referendum.” “And now backing down from the referendum is not enough, he has to resign, and then he has to get the heck out of the country because we will not let him stay here.”
Trying to join in the conversation, I said, “But if they kick him out he is going to go to my country! We do not want him there either!” All of the women laughed, and I found myself thoroughly enjoying the friendly banter as I continued to peel potatoes with a slightly dull knife. As we cooked throughout the morning neighbors kept coming to donate more food: bags of rice, a little bit of oil, pasta, chicken feet, buckets of water, anything they could spare. I noticed how the women used the world “us” often, when referring to the marchers and the campesinos.
At 11:00 AM I had the chance to watch the news for the first time, and my heart jumped. The center plaza I had walked through just a few hours before was a sea of people, stretching out as far as the eyes could see. My heart ached to be there, in the action, but I looked around at the women around me and sighed. I was obviously helping out a lot more here. I left the television room and went to fetch a barrel of water from the local church with the one man cooking with us.
By 1:30 PM—hundreds of potatoes, onions, carrots, and chuño later—we were finishing up and I could hardly believe the amount of food we had cooked. Four humongous containers of pasta, two large pots of rice, and an entire trash can of Coca tea. We all tried the pasta, which had been flavored with different kinds of vegetables, meat, and other seasonings, and it was delicious. Now, how were we going to get all of this food to the marchers in the center of city?
As events usually turn out in Bolivia, a neighbor suddenly appeared miraculously with an open back truck, which we could all head to the center in, along with the food. The food was piled onto the back of truck, with the women piling onto the truck behind it. Before headed off to the city center one of the women ran to get a “whipala” the multi-colored checkered flag that represents the different indigenous cultures in Bolivia, which would leave no doubt as to which side of the protests we were on. I was handed the whilpala and I hung it proudly on the front of the truck.
We got closer to the city center and the women I was with told me to put my hair up into my hat to draw less attention to myself. The protests we were going towards were not a joke; the people of Cochabamba were very angry about the violence yesterday, which they blamed on the well-off and generally whiter pro-Manfred supporters. Riding into the center of the city and seeing all of the eyes on me, I had never wanted to have darker skin so much in my entire life.
We hit our first problem on the outside of the cancha, Cochabamba’s large street market that takes up a significant part of the downtown area. People were running towards us and we started to smell tear gas. Apparently the police had started tear gassing protestors in this area, and we had to get out of there as soon as possible. Our driver turned around and we took another roundabout way to get closer to the main plaza. Soon we hit a “road block,” which consisted of twenty people surrounding a dumpster that had been put in the center of the street. They yelled at us, “You cannot go beyond this point, we are guarding the streets to protect the people in the center plaza!” We shouted back, “But we are here to give food to the marchers who have come from far away and need to eat!” Suspicious of us, we showed them our pots of food, and they moved the dumpster and let us through. “Good luck!” they yelled to us as we drove away.
Now we were the only vehicle driving through the streets, passing hundreds of people walking with large wooden sticks and bats down the road towards the plaza. The original plan was to serve the food at one of the marchers’ headquarters, but when we got there we were told that everyone was in the center plaza. We decided to head there, but as we got closer more people began surrounding us, asking for food. We started serving the food as fast as possible to the people running alongside the truck. I was stationed in front of one of the containers of pasta and I hardly had time to think as I was handed bag after bag of rice that I put cups of pasta into, and then handed to the people sticking their hands through the wooden bars of the truck.
I kept serving pasta, oblivious to my surroundings, and suddenly I realized that we had arrived in the center plaza. Now we were a lone vehicle in a sea of hungry people, and the job of handing people food in a timely manner became close to impossible. Rice here! Pasta now! Hand me a bag! Only give the food to the campesinos who need it most! All of the women worked as quickly as possible, burning themselves with the hot pasta multiple times in the process and franticly trying to stay out of each other’s way. People began climbing onto the truck and we had to shout at them to get down, that they would get their food as soon as possible. I was piling cups of pasta into plastic bags as fast as I could, but not fast enough. I felt as though I had stepped on a hill of ants that were now surrounding us uncontrollably.
Before I could blink, the food was gone, and there were still hundreds of hungry people waiting around us. Our driver maneuvered the truck slowly through the crowd, trying to find a way out of the plaza. We were stopped several times by marchers with their large wooden sticks, trying to block our away. To keep going we showed them our empty pots and told them we were heading back to Villa Pagador to cook more food. I tried to keep my head as low as possible to not draw attention to myself.
When we got out of the downtown area I finally had time to take in my surroundings again. Everyone in the truck looked exhausted, with bits of pasta and rice all over their pants and shirts. The truck was also a disaster, with overturned pots, loose plastic bags, and sauce from the pasta all over the floor. My hands were completely black with dried food and dirt stuck to them. Yet everyone seemed happy, content with the amount of people we had given food to. Personally, I could hardly believe what had just happened. I knew that we were going to pass out food, but I had no idea we would be in the center of the actual rally.
Looking back at this experience, it is obvious to me who the real heroes of the day were. The women of Villa Pagador cooked food for over 500 people on Friday morning, for campesinos that had come far from their homes to demand Manfred’s resignation. Furthermore, they were able to organize themselves and their neighbors in less than an hour, without thinking twice. I feel extremely lucky to have been part of this experience, and in retrospect, I would not trade it for a thousand exciting marches.
What is the difference between hearsay and actions?
Actions never lie!
Ok, now to the real truth...simply check the Bolivian newspapers:
http://www.la-razon.com/versiones/20070113_005785/nota_262_378138.htm
Desvían alimentos para los cocaleros
APOYO • La senadora del MAS, Leonilda Zurita distribuyó fideos, colchones y carpas.
Los cocaleros y campesinos que se encuentran movilizados en la capital del valle recibieron ayer de manos de la senadora suplente del MAS, Leonilda Zurita, víveres que tenían el sello del Ministerio de Defensa Nacional, según constató este medio en la sede del MAS Cochabamba.
Un camión tapado con una carpa llegó cerca a las 18.30 a la plazuela Busch ubicada en la calle Bolívar. “Le estamos entregando”, dijo un hombre de tez blanca a la senadora Zurita.
Tras recibir el cargamento que estaba compuesto por fideo, carpas verdes, colchones de una plaza y harina, la senadora Zurita distribuyó la ayuda primero a las federaciones de cocaleros y luego a los sindicatos por lista.
Según se puede ver en la foto, era “Harina San Nicolás. Elaborada por Molinos del Valle. Ministerio de Defensa Nacional”.
En La Paz, el presidente Evo Morales rechazó versiones sobre el financiamiento del Gobierno. “Nadie financia esas concentraciones. Seguramente alguna gente moviliza, a gente, con plata, pero cuando piden justicia y respeto pues se movilizan sin gastar recursos económicos”, señaló.
Jim should visit plaza Busch, I would love his take on how they are leaving that place, devoid of any grass, and garbage and filth everywhere.
You're wasting your time. Like they say in Bolivia: no hay peor sordo que el que no quiere oir.
People like Jim, even if they are shown proof, won't admit the truth. That their side is no different, no less corrupt, power hungry or violent. For some reason they like to believe that their side is full of angels and other type of super-humans (or ubermen) who can live 300yrs on a coca leaf diet and therefore beyond reproach.
Stonening of pregnant women, holding hostage the sick, old and young has repeadetely being documented and ignored.
Don't waste your time. Jim knows who butters his bread, who pays for the incredebly expensive school for his kids, etc. etc.
to Rebbeca, well i bet living at villa pagador its a crap, you gave me an idea - to sponsor the masistas - not food but weapons - anyhow guess well go there to finish off Reyes Villa and to kick all the americans out - and no we dont like miami - we own our own island thanks to el zorro, who is a kiss ass american - we only profit from the US -
To Mitch gringo go home, and dont mess with the natives we onw them in our way -
PCC
I am so glad the ano heroine decided to write, since her working in CEDIB, an externally financed, and obviously, externally administrated, against globalization ONG; one of the many in Cochabamba that participated in helping positioned Evo in the government, is practically like somebody within the bases of the MAS regimen writing.
No too much to rescue from her self indulgence but: “Riding into the center of the city and seeing all of the eyes on me, I had never wanted to have darker skin so much in my entire life”. Which shows how deeply racist are most of the today’s MAS followers, specially the ones indoctrinated by sad organizations like CEDIB. This is not new, we already observed this before and after the elections a year or so ago, in their propagandas and in their acts. It’s no surprise then, that after the road blockage of Cochabamba was lifted, MAS followers in el Chapare were asking people to see their I.D.’s to determine if they were from Santa Cruz. “Cambas” were insulted, delayed and degraded just because they born in the Orient.
I am even more saddened of the other words she wrote, when quoting the other “heroine”; “You should have heard this women giving a speech in Quechua today, she said that if Manfred thinks we are only a few, then come see us now!” “Yeah, let them see us now, Manfred is going to be sorry he ever thought about this referendum.” “And now backing down from the referendum is not enough, he has to resign, and then he has to get the heck out of the country because we will not let him stay here.” It demonstrates so clearly how much prejudiced and hate is in this people thanks to the rhetoric of the likes of Jim, Evo, and Garcia Lineras. She expresses how they really think they are “mas”(more), like in one of their political propaganda; it also shows how they are so arrogant to really believe that they have the power to do whatever they want, being the rights and views of others insignificant for them.
Their identity crisis is so huge, that they need of victories in a continue bases for the Regime not to succumb; that is why the resistance of the valiant Cochabambinos represented such a big blow to the regime and that is why this city is still suffering its siege.
I opine that a reasonable person would conclude that BL wrote the above two posts. The venom and syntax are similar and serve the same agenda although the first post does it in a covert way.
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