Day of the Sea
Today the landlocked nation of Bolivia commemorates the Day of the Sea, or more accurately, the national goal of regaining the sovereign access to the Pacific that it lost 128 years ago today.It was on this day in 1879 that Chilean troops seized Bolivia's last shoreline and the country never got control of it again. In Bolivia, this is not the stuff of ancient history.
School children are taught early on "that Bolivia must regain its sea." School celebrations of Bolivian independence often feature children dressed in the traditional costumes of each of the nation's nine departments, including a tenth dressed in black and in chains for "El Departamento Littoral" – the sea. La Paz hosts a museum dedicated exclusively to the sea and its loss.
The spark of the gas revolt here in October 2003 was not just the popular belief that President Gonzalo Sanchez de Lozada was about engineer another bargain sell-off of Bolivia's gas and oil, but that the deal involved selling it through Chile. The two countries still do not have complete formal diplomatic relations.
Certainly, the Bolivian dream these days is a "Sea for Gas" deal in which Chile would grant Bolivia some form of unfettered access to a port to call its own, in exchange for being part of a gas export deal. It would be the South American equivalent of a "Land for Peace" swap in the Middle East and Evo Morales pulling it off would be the South American equivalent of Nixon going to China, sort of.
All of this may be a dream for Bolivia, or at least something a long way from being realized, but you have to give Bolivia and Bolivians credit for never giving up on the demand to reverse an injustice done to the nation more than a century ago.

The Democracy Center, based in Cochabamba Bolivia and San Francisco California, works globally to advance human rights through a combination of investigation and reporting, training citizens in the art of public advocacy, and organizing international citizen campaigns. If you like the Blog, consider becoming a subscriber to The Democracy Center's free e-newsletter by sending us an email at 
38 Comments:
If you are going to Lake Titicaca from La Paz, keep your eyes peeled. In the plaza of one of the towns on the straits (where you have to get off the micro to cross in a boat), there is a monument with a Bolivian soldier stabbing a Chilean in the neck with a bayonette. There is blood painted on the monument and it says something to the effect of "nuestro sera".
RE: Michael's comment above: that is in the Strait of Tiquina, separating the two towns San Pedro and San Pablo at a narrowing of the lake. Being part of the border with Peru, the lake is patroled by the Bolivian navy (I think they are the only landlocked country to have one), and you may see some sailors there. The strait is on the way to Copacabana. The full-color relief of the Bolivian bayonetting the Chilean in the neck (with accompanying spurting blood, and great poses) is on one side of the base under a statue of Avaroa, the hero of the war (although I've heard he's also revered by the Chileans, who tell a very different version of the story of the War of the Pacific - does anyone know if that's true?). I can't find a picture of it online right now, but I know I have one somewhere.
Equally interesting, I think, is the billboard on the other side of the strait, which depicts a Bolivian sailor at the helm of a boat, and behind him stands none other than Jesus Christ, and above them is the famous slogan, "El mar nos pertenece por derecho. Recuperarlo es un deber." Look for it to the right, behind the fence, as you depart the ferry heading to Copacabana/Peru from La Paz.
If you're really lucky, you'll have a Chilean or two traveling with you. The look on their faces as they take in these sights is instructive. Bemusement? Incredulity? They don't seem overly disturbed -- presumably because they think it will never happen. A Chilean friend told me that when he was traveling to Bolivia, friends made jokes like, "Don't forget your surfboard!" And once near a Caribinieri outpost in Southern Chile, an officer asked where I lived and then proceded to tease me and mock Bolivia's landlocked status and its demands to return to the sea. It was the closest thing to unfriendliness I experienced in a month there.
http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/09/24/world/americas/24bolivia.html
By the way, Bolivia not only has a navy force, but proudly boasts a Navy School of War "Escuela Naval de Guerra", located on top of a hill in the western slopes of the city of La Paz. The buildings oversee the city valley where according to geologists an ancient lake once drained its waters to Titicaca.
Bolivia lives on dreams and nostalgy of an often described as "glorious" past. Reaching even to the precambric.
Now, how many modern civilizations have THAT luxury?
...ah yes...El Litoral.
It explains a lot about the Bolivian psyche. You can see the whole thing and see Bolivia as guilty of having a stupid tax confrontation with the leading empire of the time, or believe the tale of a innocent victim raped by the rotos.
Anyhow, it would serve Bolivia to get over it an move on. Spain is more likely to win back sovergnity over LatAm than Bolivia is to get a single dock&crane on a Chilean port. Jim, Populists and Grindos please do flame away.
I agree Bolivia should move on, chile is never going to give up what it looted by reason, and Bolivia its too weak to take it back by force, but letting go of this
injustice and forgetting a sovereign sea access, will never happen, its like saying fine to being imprisoned or relegated to a miserable life,too proud a nation for that.
"morir antes que esclavo vivir"
How can we move on if the MAS regime is busy doing this?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UrYBOjcv7Hs
I hope this video helps some of you to understand that promoting the obtaining of rights, human and economic, trough road blocking and violence, like Jim does, is not the solution for Bolivia’s problems.
BL, thank you for this gruesome and tragic reminder of why it is that anyone who believes in true democratic values and freedom should oppose and codemn this fascist violent group of thugs that wants to establish another communist hell in Latin America.
just perez
Bolivia Libre,
You are a FOOL. Like Michael so wisely and succintly put it this is simply an extension of the "morir antes que esclavos vivir." The mob is easily moved and inspired by these catchy phrases and slogans. It is the sad truth, but people believe that going against recommendations of the IMF/WB/UN is hacer patria. But being utterly submissive and manipulated by Chavez and Castro is living in dignity and freedom.
The heart of the problem in Bolivia is leadership. Fixing the country is actually extremely simple, it starts with justice, efficiency, transparency, and of course free markets. But unfortunately, you have Evo who believes that Cuba is the way and that a World without the US is a better world.
On top of that you have to add morally flawed characters like Jim. Their arrogance is only surpassed by their hipocrisy. Impossing democracy in Iraq is working so wonderfully, let's export the idea to Bolivia. His whole center is supposed to promote democracy, but in reality is simply a Ponzi scheme in which he gets to live like a king, send his kids to the most exclusive and elite institutions. How many Mamamis, cocaleros do you think are at Calvert or Brown. You can build a school in a village with just one month's tuition. Do the math and see what a scam artist this guy is. Paid vacations to DC, California, and other exotic locations is what else donations to The Democracy Center gets you. Actual work done to defend democracy = 0
But I digress. My bottom line message is that we are at a point where silly things like facts and logic don't matter. Evo is just like Bush, and in their world what matters is truthiness.
Finally, there are people like Grindio that will say that I'm Goni's brother and member of the UJC. And we all know that line from Bush as well. If you are not with Evo, you are probably distributing small-pox infected blankets in the altiplano.
Thus there can be no dialogue and no hope. I expect this cycle to last about 2-3 years before sh*t hits the fan. At which point NO, absolutely no political candidate will talk about work, individual responsability, and attracting investment. It will be the same sad tango...revolution, anti-imperialism, and Pachakuti.
These fools (Evo, Jim, Grindio, Tuto, Manfred, Doria Medina) don't realize even the prophecy of Pachakuti calls for the Eagle and the Condor to fly together.
Bolivia Libre: Thanks for the youtube link. Not objective I guess, but very...interesting.
Jim: Look forward to read you opinion around the corrupcy case going on with the MAS senators (my spanish is not excellent, so I might have misunderstood the article in the newspaper), seems like a democratic problem from my point of view.
Dear ano, some fools in Bolivia just don’t happen to be, “rich enough” to legally leave the Country, even if they can prove to be too “white” to be treated with equality by the regime that currently governs the country. In addition, first world nation governments, read European and American, just don’t give a penny about the mess their citizens NGO’s have created in the Country and wont give the fools resident visas to migrate, they instead write papers about how democracy is diminishing in Bolivia; reading, US report on human rights, particularly, Bolivian chapter.
Furthermore, and I will be happy to be called a fool for this, I just don’t thing it is right to accept that a fascist regime come and tell me that my family and I are second class citizen in the country where we all born because of the colour of our skin or because we cannot prove we are a descendant of one of the native endogenous tribes the government accept to be originally Bolivian.
So, when fools cannot leave to a decent life in other place, and do not accept being second class citizens, they can only fight to bring democracy back to the country. The video I recently posted is one example that there is hope and that people is starting to fight back to prevent from democracy to die in Bolivia.
I was lucky enough to met a man last year when I was in a convention in Africa, this man was from Sierra Leona; also invited to the same convention. He did not have his right hand but he was able to pick things up with a tool like a forceps he had attached to his missed limb. Since we were together for a week, I learned that this man lost his hand because he participated in his country’s local presidential elections. It turned out that civil war continue after elections and that the guerrilla toughs, very much like the cocaleros, were able to take over the capital of the country. This man was accused at having participated in the “democratic presidential elections” and was asked if he preferred “short sleeves or long sleeves” just before they machete away his hand so he learns not to be participating in elections any more. Peace was restored and presidential elections were run again, and again this man went to vote. If I will think like you estimate ano, I would have told him that he was a fool because nobody can ensure Sierra Leona is not going to go into civil war again. If he is a fool, he is a very brave fool and somebody we should learn how to be a fool from.
All do very few want to accept it, the MAS regime and all those that instigated the cocalero invasion to Cochabamba last January, instigated a civil confrontation. The death young man at the end of the video is Chirstian Urresti, the 17 year old murder in an inhumane way; as inhumane as civil war is. He and thousand of others were fools to put themselves in harms way in order to show the regime that we will fight for democracy; I was also one of those fools. Who knows, and this democracy preservation ideal is just as a foolish thing to seek as to recuperate our sea.
I think that the whole "el mar nos pertenece por derecho, recuperarlo es un deber" is a way of indoctrinating the people to blame foreigners for their own problems. It's a convenient way for politicians to find scapegoats.
Therefore, I don't think it's admirable to commemorate "El Día del Mar" the way it is. It's just a convenient excuse to display a culture of victimology, something akin to Morales blaming poverty due to "500 years of oppression."
I just wanted to say that I found your blog from this ranking of the Bolivia top blogs, where this blog ranks as fourth. Congrats :)
The link is:
http://www.boliviaweb.com/blogs/ranking.aspx
Note.- It is made with a script, so the rank is always updating and changing.
BL,
On second tought, Quijote would have been a better choice of word. However, don't feel lonely, because I'm also in that ship of fools.
Alas last summer I had the choice of being in Wall Street and get paid well over $10K a week to play with Excel. Instead I took a 97% pay cut and went to Bolivia.
However I can say that in those 10 weeks, I did more for democracy and the economy than Jim ( I know that is a very low standard) has ever done in however many years he has been down here.
Great! :-)
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